" " " Inca City "
 

Latin America offers up some of the most dramatic contrasts to be seen anywhere in the world. The Atacama Desert, one of the hottest and driest places on the planet, is almost completely devoid of life, but just a few hundred miles away lies the Amazon rainforest, home to the greatest biodiversity in the world - it is estimated that millions of different species live here.

What sort of people live on this fascinating continent?

And the contrasts are not limited to geography and plant and animal life. It is estimated that as many as 5,000 different tribes lived in Peru when the Spanish arrived and that 90% of these were wiped out after the European incursion. However, that means that 500 tribes still remain in Peru, many in the Amazon where they were able to avoid all contact with the Incas and then the Spanish conquistadors. Even those who were not in the Amazon often threw themselves behind the conquistadors in order to rid themselves of the overbearing Inca and his demands for gold and labour.

These days the contrast between native Peruvian and foreigner is nowhere more marked than in the city of Cusco, located close to Machu Picchu. This city receives 1.5 million visitors a year who come to marvel at the Inca and Spanish legacy and travel to the "Lost City of the Incas". Even with all these "modern" people passing through the city there are thousands of indigenous people living on the edges of the city and in the nearby countryside that work, socialize and dress as they have for hundreds of years. When these true residents come into the city, the contrast between native and foreigner is marked, not only in the color of the skin, but in their dress and even things like height. Andean people are a lot shorter than Europeans or North Americans, so as a foreigner you often feel like a giant as you walk the streets of Cusco. Going home after a long time in Peru, you then feel like a midget when everyone is suddenly as tall as you, if not taller.

Aside from the physical differences, the contrasting way of life can also come as a shock. Get a little off the tourist route and within 30 minutes you will feel as if you have been transported back 200 years with people using hand ploughs, manually carrying water and goods, using many farm animals (such as teams of donkeys to thresh corn) and following old traditions that we in the west consider ridiculous (such as moving a live Guinea Pig over a patient to find out what is wrong with them, which is ascertained when it squeaks over a particular part of the body!).

The vast majority of indigenous people live at or below the poverty line, but amazingly seem very happy with life. When you walk through remote villages local people smile and say hello, and want to talk to you. They are obviously not tainted by the city dwellers' expectations of the tourist trade. An unfortunate side effect of seeing a lot of foreigners come through the city and eat at restaurants where one dish can cost more than a local will earn in a day is that a lot of the poorer Peruvians living in the cities see tourists as a limitless source of money, whereas the indigenous people in the countryside are generally happy to strike up a conversation for free.

As a foreigner in cities like Cusco, it is easy to become hardened to the poverty around you, especially when being seen as a walking cashpoint by the majority becomes too irritating. However, try giving a piece of bread to one of those children in the street and you will see that the mercenary attitude is only skin-deep - they really are grateful for everything they receive.

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Five hundred years ago, the last great pyramid-building civilization descended into a world of unimaginable horror. Fear may have driven them to extremes of human sacrifice. But what could have scarred them to the point of extinction? Recently discovered evidence may provide some clues. With the help of archaeologists, climate scientists and forensic experts, Inside Lost Worlds digs up the truth behind this ancient mystery.

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On May 30, 2010, the fifth anniversary of Holloway's disappearance, Stephany Tatiana Flores Ramírez, 21, died at the Hotel Tac Sac in the Miraflores District of Lima, Peru. Her beaten body was found wrapped in a bloody blanket three days later by hotel workers who noticed a foul odor coming from Room 309, which had been registered in Van der Sloot's name. According to Peruvian investigators, she suffered blunt force trauma to her head, causing a brain hemorrhage and breaking her neck. A tennis racquet, identified as the murder weapon, was recovered from the room. A hotel guest and an employee have come forward to claim they saw Van der Sloot and the victim entering his hotel room together and the police have video of the two playing cards at the same table the night before at the Atlantic City Casino in Lima. Van der Sloot had entered Peru via Colombia on May 14, 2010 to attend the Latin American Poker Tour. Flores Ramírez was a business student at the University of Lima. She was the daughter of Ricardo Flores, a former president of the Peruvian Automobile Club and winner of the "Caminos del Inca" rally in 1991. A prominent businessman, he ran for vice president in 2001 and for president five years later on fringe tickets. Flores said that police found date rape drugs in his daughter's car about 50 blocks from the hotel where she died. About 5000 Peruvian soles (US$1755) that she had won at the casino was missing

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Provincia

[Peruvian]

Chachapoyas

The Amazonas of Peru

[From Chicago to Kuelap]

By Dennis L. Siluk

1

We caught a plane from St. Paul, Minnesota to Chicago, an early morning flight, one day in late February 2006. We were trying to set up our move to South America, Peru, and had to see the Consul General of Peru in Chicago, we had seen him a few years prior to this, when he was visiting Minnesota, but our move was to take place in mid March (kind of a semi retirement move), and we had to sign our marriage papers from six years prior, thus, making it legal in Peru, since I would be seeking duel citizenship. I slept briefly on the plane, and we landed at O'Hare, around 8:00 AM, second class. Somewhere near the airport was the train station, we found our way to it, and my wife Rosa bought roundtrip tickets to downtown Chicago, we'd return after seeing the Consul, having late lunch and perhaps a walk around the windy city's Michigan Avenue area. It was a special day you could say, not only in that we would sign all this documentation, but also it was Valentines Day, and the Consul General gave Rosa a suggestion where to take me, and she did, to a fine Italian Restaurant, and the food was great, I had lasagna. It was her gift to me; she always takes me to the best restaurants in town when we go on trips though.

We headed right into the main building of the Consul General's second floor office, he had moved about a block away from where his previous address was, so Rosa had told me, she was down to see him twice before, to vote and pay some kind of miserable small tax, for not voting in Peru think: it is next to a minor crime not to vote there. This time I was with her, as she had made an attempt before to have me go to Chicago, I suppose I was hoping we could do all the paperwork needed without me going, but it was impossible, I had to be there to sign the papers. So we caught the elevator to the second or third floor, and walked up to the window in the office of the Consul General, told the secretary who we were and to our surprise, or at least to mine, they had all the paper work already made up; next, they called us, and took us into the back room, sat us down, and we started filling in the blank spaces necessary.

The Consul General was a warm sort of fellow, cross-legged as he sat behind his desk, a nice looking older man, sound, healthy looking; after we had done all the signing, he invited us into his personal office, we didn't have to wait like the others out in the small cramped hall area. His father was a poet, and so we got talking about poetry and I think special treatment, for meeting a poet he appreciated--as I was known to be, or at least showed his appreciation in the only way he could at the time, that is, allowing us the comfort of his soft office seats, until we had to go anyway; and being Poet Laureate of San Jeronimo de Peru at that, made things a little better between us. In the short-term of our meeting and free conversations he talked about his home in the Amazonas (in a few words adding bits and pieces of his childhood), and poetry of course. Rosa and I gave him the last three books I had written, two on Peru, one on Minnesota, all poetry ('Last Autumn and Winter,' 'Poetic Images Out of Peru,' and 'Peruvian Poems'.)

"I'm from the Amazonas," he said to Rosa, and they carried on a short conversation, then gave us a poster of Kuelap, it was the first time I had seen this location in the Andean-jungles of Peru, about 1000-miles from Lima. As I looked over the poster, I was quite impressed; it had a picture of a fortress I'd soon find out was called, "The Hidden Fortress," or Kuelap.

He liked poetry so much he read out loud to us (my wife and I, and the secretary who stood behind us for that moment) my poem called, "The Ice Maiden," in the book, 'Peruvian Poems;' I thought at the time he could have been a second Dylan Thomas, he sounded quite dramatic and powerful, a good reader of poetry, a lot of emotion, but then Peruvians have an extra dose of that for some God given reason. (In a short time I'd find out more about Kuelap, and its 9th Century fortress; its wild warriors of antiquity--the Chachapoyas, and their warring with the Incas. All in due time, and as I looked more and more into this area I got more excited about Kuelap and its ancient walled ruins (discovered less than a half century ago); by the research I had done on Kuelap, it seemed, or reminded me of, compare to or with: 'The Great Enclosure,' of Zimbabwe in Africa. Of course that was just a mindset. I then had visions of grassy slopes, by the Navahos, as I've told my wife, time and again first you hear about a location of interest, then you dream about it ((find out things)) then you see it, and it become part of you.

An Afternoon in Chicago

The sun, like a deer trail--bit my brow,

Industriously, as my wife and I took the train

Back to O'Hare from downtown Chicago, --

Windy city, with stretched-up eyebrows

In its winter sleep.

We walked around, downtown: busy city--

From Washington Street to Michigan; across

The bridge, there on East Ontario, we

Ate at 'Bice,' Italian Restaurant (my wife

Paid the bill) her treat, Valentine's Day.

I'm waiting for the plane now; it's 5:00 PM;

It has been one of those happier days, moments,

In my life: strange, even with Northwest being late.

It is pale, to dark now (6:00 PM)

Sitting on these worn-out seats...!

Thinking of nothing, like when you're a little boy,

Spending the whole day rambling through the

City, on your high, two wheel bike!...

Whistling away a sunny day,

With nothing much to do or say.

My wife, sitting next me fell to sleep, hat on:

Holding my jacket in her two hands, sleeping;

Had to remove her coffee cup, in case it fell:

She's in some joyful lofty solitude;

While I'm sniffling away like hell.

It was nice, just being we today

Before having to go back home, to St. Paul,

Go back to the kitchen--fixing things.

As I look about, everyone's on cell phones.

Hurry-up--flight: NW 145!

Now that I think of it, one can smell the lake

The Great Lake Michigan; feel its pulse, its

Wind like tides in the air all about.

Soft dust, swirling along the cities streets;

Street people blowing brass horns for a meal.

Rhythmic packs, misplaced men and women:

Everywhere: like undergrowth, weeds not growing.

Drunks, and derelicts, eyes staring at your every move,

An endless forest of a city, with boulders,

Towering bricks, next to an unforgiving lake:

Chicago!...

Semi prose/ 2/14/06 #1208

It was a about five o' clock (in the PM) when we caught our plane back to Minnesota, and within the following month, March 19, we caught our plane to Peru, once we landed in Lima, I got word it had snowed 11-inches in Minnesota, I was not surprised, but more than happy to have avoided the snow storm, I had my fill of them. It was within the following two weeks where I had bought tickets to fly to Chiclayo (on the 27th of March); from there we'd take a bus to the surrounding area of Kuelap: a four day trip. And this is where we stop for moment (for I am writing this in advance of that four day trip), for I will be taking that journey in a few days, tickets in hand. (Written March 25, 2006.)

2

The Kuelap Bum

[Of the Amazonas]

Come; share a wild Kuelap Bum's sunny afternoon--

I sit here, sipping my coffee and coke waiting for my pollo saltado

[Chicken with potatoes and rice),

And hear voices, cars pass: sounds, coming from iron motors
Like purring cats and roaring mice, with squeaky feet for tires, race

Racing around the café (El Parquetito, in Miraflores)) Lima)), Around the streets and park--; the sun boiling overhead, as I'm

Reading Jack Kerouac's: "The Dharma Bums,"--I feel like one.

My date to return back into the Amazonian region--this time to the

Andean-jungle--is in five days. My mind is excited, here is
Where come my beautiful visions of grassy slopes, by the Nevados,

And there ahead in front of me, are the ancient ruins of Kuelap
I can even see the wild warriors of antiquity: the Chachapoyas,

Fight the Incas in the wild deep, deep Andean-jungles of Peru.

I like the incredible peace here, lost in a maze of thoughts, looking for

No certain highway I can sweat, drink my coke and coffee in peace, while I write and dream...and get ready for my next journey.

#1283 3/23/2006 Note by the author: I have been to the Andes and to the Amazon, and even to the Amazonas as they are known for their sections, ranging from Equator to Peru, and Brazil and Venezuela, of which I have been to all these regions or sections except one, the one I am dreaming about, and will go in five days to, to what is known as the Andean-Amazonian region, where elevation is part of the jungle equation, not so in the other regions. Thus, here is where the "Forgotten Fortress," is located, similar to the 'Great Enclosure,' in Zimbabwe. The Forgotten Fortress dates back to about 800 AD.

The Chachapoya's

[and 'The Forgotten Fortress]

Advance: I don't even know these people I talk about, I've seen the landscape they've live on only in books, rushed through, gritting their ivory teeth before they warred with the Inca's in the 16th century (this pre-Inca civilization). But the more one studies this great civilization, the more one admires its fantastic powers of visualization, its psychic rulers, and wild bull like hearts, and the great fortress (labyrinth) they built in the middle of the Andean-jungles of Peru (walking through it one can only hold their breath in awe: breath in its life-death patriarchal society.

Today, the Chachapoya still carry on in this area, with its pottery, and tapestry, garments, all highly prized; at onetime they worked for the Incas, and like today, gave them high quality. In a few more days, let's say seven to be exact I shall be among them.

The Poem:

In the Andean-jungle--the Chachapoya's (the tree-cloud people)
Of the 'Forgotten Fortress,' of Kuelap (Amazonas de Peru) once

lived here--twelve-hundred years ago--perhaps 2000- or more
Lived in this straddled low-land jungle citadel --; bold and free:

cadaverous war like people, spirit filled: more fierce than the Inca.

Here is where they lived--in Kuelap, in limestone houses: under

conical thatched roofs--;
Houses of limestone masonry, in mud mortar plaster like tombs:

painted in rainbow colors; few if any windows.

The ravages of time have sadly, seen the looting of the detailed:

elaborate funerary architecture of the Chachapoya race--;
Once decorated in rainbow shades, zigzag friezes, in cliff like caves.

#1287 3/20/2006 [Written before my trip to the Amazonas]

3

Introduction to Chachapoya

(The following is taken from notes on my trip; only slightly modified for spelling errors, etc.)

It is funny how one thing leads into another. Someone gives you a poster; you hang it in your home; remember what he had to say about such historical sites as Kuelap, dating back to about 700 AD, with walls as thick as Troy's, and legends as potent. Then you look a little deeper into this area the person has mentioned briefly, but enthusiastically, and find other sites that open your eyes to the bountiful, and most beautiful region known as the Amazonas of Peru, and find Carajia [also spelled with a 'K'], dating back to the 13th Century. And on the journey you find much, much more. In Chapter #3, and the following chapters, we shall take a quick trip to the region, with some poetic verse to help us drift along its watery roads, up its banks, through its small towns, and so forth and on, I am writing this on pieces of paper, in my pocket, and my wife has a pad of paper she bought a few days ago, I'll use it when I get back to the hotel.

(Talking to my friend the Archeologist) Kuelap, is called, The Forgotten City, discovered only forty-years ago, in the Amazonas of Northern Peru. The area is wide open for and to new discoveries; I am sure there will be many also. (Added later on in the following evening: in villages you can still find mummies in homes, and local mud built museums, and see them within caves on ledges of mountains. It is an archeological paradise, and one of the last frontiers for such discoveries in the world.)

Kuelap is cuddled in an odd way, cuddled over looking the Kuelap Valley, cuddled I say by the mist that surrounds her, as if she didn't exist, and all of a sudden: there she is. The mist drifts and descends into the valley fully allowing Kuelap to be seen then, and once on top of her great walls, you can see on a clear afternoon, you can see a hundred-miles in all directions, East, West, and North South.

Kuelap is a sacred city to many in the region, a temple of or for the dead; yet some sprits still live there and are restless about the excavations going on here, I talked to two of them, one in particular who wanted to know what I wanted. And I asked him what bothered him? And he said: desecration (defilement); so there is fear in the shadowy corners of these cyclopean stones walls I do believe. In addition to being a temple of sorts, Kuelap is also a fortress, and surely at one time used as a city, for it has 400-stone houses in its small hilltop complex. The Inca Empire did dominate it, at its very end, by request of the Conquistadors, because Spain couldn't.

Thus, the white cotton canopy that descends, also ascends above the luscious multi shaded green valley; above the wild berries my friend and leader of this group: Maria, loved to eat; and there must exist every kind of plant a person can think of in this Amazonas' Valley. (From notes on the trip: 3/30/06; #1295)

Julio Rodriguez, our Archeologist: while driving around the city, on a city tour, we talked about Carajia, had some coffee in the small city of Chachapoya; tomorrow we'd go to see Carajia; anyhow, when we got talking about the Inca Empire then, and he got talking about Huayna Capac, he called him the Last Inca, the Father to Atahualpa, the Inca king that is so well known; he was killed by the Conquistadors for not becoming a Christian; I have a statue of him in my library. Carajia is where the six sarcophagi are entrenched into a mountain cave.

After lunch and coffee, I quickly jotted down the information he gave me in a poem, I call:

"The Last Inca" (Huayna Capac)

Tall and handsome, built like a bull,

A warrior among warriors with long blond hair

Eyes like emeralds, tears of gold,

He was the King's son--

(Atahualpa) now ruler of all Northern Peru;

And so it was, when the last Inca King died,

The kingdom was split, like Alexander's,

Between two half brothers...!

#1294 3/29/06

4

[Walking around Chachapoyas] While looking for a place to have coffee, and a light lunch, we [Maria, Rosa, myself, and Julio] walked past a church, there was a lady sitting there on the steps, head lowered, her daughter along side of her, dirty faced, flowers laying along side of her. It was a hot day, a moist day, and we walked past her, and after a hundred feet or so I asked my wife to go back and buy the flowers, all of them, then I joined her. Now writing this out, it is evening in our Spanish hotel (three Stars***: La Casona), and here is my poem:

The Flower Lady of Chachapoyas

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Lima Cathedral is an immense baroque cathedral originally built in 1564. In addition to its fine baroque art, it is best known for being designed by Francisco Pizarro (who conquered the Incas and founded Lima) and for containing his tomb. The layout for this immense structure was dictated by Francisco Pizarro himself, and his basic vision has survived despite extensive rebuilds after earthquakes in 1746 and 1940. The first church on the site was completed in 1625. Pizarro's tomb. Daniel Lobo. Because of changing tastes, the main altar was replaced around 1800 with one in a neoclassical style. At about the same time the towers that flank the entrance were added. The interior of Lima cathedral is attractive, with a delicate vaulted ceiling and a checkerboard floor. It is embellished with some impressive baroque furnishings, the most notable of which are the intricately carved choir stalls. But perhaps the highlight of a visit to the cathedral is the colorfully mosaiced chapel containing the tomb of Francisco Pizarro (1475-1541), Spanish conquistador, conqueror of the Inca Empire and founder of the city of Lima. There is also a small museum of religious art and artifacts.

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You can find everything that can make you fall in love with a large, elongated country in the southern part of South America. Of course, I'm talking about Argentina, the beautiful country of Gauchos, Mate, Asado, Tango, Pampas, and Dulce de leche. It is one of the beautiful jewels of Latin America.

One of top travel destinations of South America, Argentina is known for its treasures of pleasures, stunning natural marvels, elegant capital offering European-flavored sophistication, fantastic culture, and typical Argentinean cuisine that dishes out big steaks of the best meat of the world. It is the country where both Europeans and North Americans feel home. Certainly, there are numerous reasons to visit Argentina, but here are top 10 reasons for you.
Reason Number 1 - Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina is one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world. Buenos Aires is famous for its cultural & architectural heritage, urban life, shopping centers café society, clubs, vibrant nightlife, and Tango, which was born in the neighborhood of San Telmo and La Boca. The highlights of the city include the old bohemian neighborhood of San Telmo with its cobblestone streets and Recoleta Cemetery with its ornate mausoleums, among which is the burial place of Evita.

Reason Number 2 - Iguazu Falls is one of the natural wonders of the world. Often featured in Bond movies, the endless waterfalls on the border of Argentina and Brazil are the major attraction of Northern Argentina. Physically situated in Argentina, but Iguazu Falls is major attraction from the Brazilian side too. You can enjoy the beautiful panoramic views on the Brazilian side, but don't forget to enjoy a boat ride underneath the falls and explore the National Park next to the waterfall.

Reason Number 3 - The Recoleta Cemetery, located in the elite neighborhood of Recoleta, brings to life the history of the country. The cemetery bosoms many the legends of Argentina including past dictators, scoundrels, heroes, and the most famous woman of South America, Eva Peron (Evita). The Recoleta Cemetery is a 13-acre labyrinth of concrete, sculptures and architectural masterpieces.

Reason Number 4 - Buenos Aires Tango is one of the most unique cultural contributions of Argentina to the world culture. You can enjoy touring different areas, such as the neighborhood of San Telmo and La Boca that narrates the tales of the origin of Tango. You get a Tango lessons, Tango shopping, Tango restaurants and the best Tango shows. You can go to a Tango milonga for late night entertainment.

Reason Number 5 - Glaciers National Park, situated in the Province of Santa Cruz in the Argentina Patagonia, is a UNESCO Natural Heritage site. It has a gorgeous landscape that covers up over 1,482,000 acres of land. Its main attraction is the majestic Perito Moreno Glacier that stands 262 ft tall and is 3.1miles long. Other glaciers include Spegazzini, Upsala and Onelli, surrounded by the Onelli and Bertrand mountains. The park also includes Lake Argentino, Lake Viedma, and the Fitz Roy Mountain.

Reason Number 6 - Estancias on the pampas - Surrounding the city of Buenos Aires is the pampas, the vast plain where the country's legendary cattle graze. The Argentine equivalent of cowboys, gauchos, can be found working the many estancias (ranches) that dot the pampas. Many of these estancias are now open for tourism and feature beautiful nineteenth-century homes for spending a relaxing few nights.

Reason Number 7 - Mendoza and Argentina's Wine Country is vaguely reminiscent of the Chianti region of Italy or perhaps of Bordeaux in southern France, but the highest peaks in the Americas loom over the vineyards makes the difference. You can scale the Aconcagua, if wine tasting is not attraction enough for you. Stop long enough to see the Puente del Inca which, at over 12,000 feet, is a natural bridge over a rock chasm which the Peruvian Incas often used for silver mining expeditions in the southern parts of the Andes.

Reason Number 8 - Argentinean beef has become world famous specialty. It comes from the cows that graze on nutrient rich river basin soil from the Rio De Plate. The beef is tasty and succulent because the climate of the Pampas region is mild and moist all year round. You can find the beef at almost all Argentinean restaurants.

Reason Number 9 - Colón Theatre (Spanish: Teatro Colón) in Buenos Aires is one of the most famous opera houses in the world. Located in 9 de Julio Avenue, has hosted some of the most famous performances. Opened in 1908, Teatro Colón has 2,367 seats, standing room for 1,000 and a stage which is 20 m wide, 15 m high and 20 m deep. It houses one of the most extensive costume collections on the planet.

Reason Number 10 - Salta Argentina, located in an arid region in Northern Argentina, is an exotic city steeped in history. You can see the famous train called "The Train In The Clouds" here. The train offers panoramic mountainous views of the area. Salta is known for its rolling hills, historic sights, excellent fishing sites, and relaxed atmosphere.

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Saturday, September 11, 2010 at 1:41 PM | 0 comments  
A 45 minute flight from Lima, the Corichanca is the most famous building in Cusco. The Inca stone construction is mysterious in that the boulders are so huge and fit so well together. Country life is never far away, as alpaca roam around posing for pictures. Colorful tapestries are a highly prized acquisition, and restaurants are supplied with excellent produce from nearby farms.

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